What Is a Trichologist? (And Do You Need One?)
Scalp health is so important, it is a specialty!
The “skinification” of hair has been a major movement in the beauty industry, ushering in scalp treatments and tools and haircare products infused with skincare-quality ingredients. The trend has also shed light on the small but specific field of trichology, the study of hair and scalp issues and their treatments.
Trichologists (the people who study trichology, natch) have long been a go-to resource for beauty editors when we’re working on scalp or haircare stories. They have special training in issues such as hair loss, dandruff, breakage, and excessive shedding, but they can also help you with healthy hair growth. They don’t have medical degrees (although medical professionals can become trichologists), but they have intensive training and hands-on experience with all the above-mentioned conditions. They often take a whole-body approach to hair care.
I’ve learned in my 20+ years as a beauty editor/writer that trichology is a relatively small field. Editors and writers tend to turn to the same few experts for our stories. So I was thrilled to discover that we have a trichologist here on Long Island (in my hometown of Huntington, no less)!
Meet Laura Fox, a longtime hairstylist and colorist who saw firsthand the emotional toll hair loss took on her clients. “Women would sit in my chair completely devastated,” she says. Eager to offer her clients more solutions, Fox got trained in scalp micropigmenation, a process that involves implanting tiny dots of pigmented color on exposed parts of the scalp to create the illusion of thicker, fuller hair. But she didn’t stop there: Fox decided to become a certified trichologist to offer clients a full protocol to foster a healthy scalp and hair growth.
So, What Does a Trichologist Do?
During an appointment with a trichologist, you can expect a thorough health and hair history, including questions about hereditary hair loss, nutrition, medical history, any recent blood work, and product and styling habits. Your appointment may also include a scalp analysis with a digital microscope to reveal issues such as dandruff, loss of density, and inflammation. The trichologist can also see the health of your follicles and hair strands.
All these factors help a trichologist develop a customized protocol that may include topical treatments, supplements, dietary changes, and recommendations for medications such as Minoxidil and treatments including the laser cap and plasma-rich platelet (PRP) injections.
What Happened During My Scalp Analysis
I got to experience a scalp analysis and facial with Fox, which was an eye-opening experience. I’ve always had a tendency toward dry scalp or dandruff (aka seborrheic dermatitis). From my years as a beauty editor, I know the underlying cause is a type of yeast that feeds on scalp oils. Ick, right? I would knock it out with an over-the-counter dandruff shampoo and eventually stop treating it once my flakes disappeared. Well, they’re baaaaccck! Fox offered to get at the root of the issue, literally.
With a digital microscope, she started at the top of my head, along the part line, where women typically first see signs of thinning. All looked good on the screen in front of me. My scalp appeared normal. She said my hair density was good. Then she moved the microscope down to the sides and back of my head, and woah! On the screen, my hair follicles were surrounded by clumps of white stuff (dead skin), and there were patches of red skin: inflammation. Eek!
After the analysis, Fox treated my scalp with a radiofrequency wand to help bring down some of that scalp inflammation. I felt a slight tingling as she moved the wand around my scalp. Then, she used a metal comb to help slough off some of the built-up scales, avoiding the inflamed areas. Next came a serum application and a heavenly scalp massage in a massage chair. Fox explained that with many clients, she would then use a derma roller (a tool with tiny needles), bringing blood flow to the scalp and follicles. But she skipped on me — again, due to the inflammation. Next came a volumizing blowout. The final step: another look with the digital microscope. The difference was astonishing! The white clumps were gone, and the angry red patches faded to a softer pink. My scalp felt invigorated and cleaner than before. Fox also recommended what to use to keep the flakes away, i.e., not the shampoo I had been using.
So, Do You Need to See a Trichologist?
If you have hair or scalp issues: thinning, dry, brittle hair, breakage, dandruff, inflammation, etc., then it’s worth making an appointment. Learning — and seeing — what is going on with your hair at the scalp level is fascinating.
But even if you don’t have any scalp concerns, a trichologist can help you get on the right plan to optimize hair growth. “I have over 15 years of experience in the hair industry,” says Fox. “I’ve been a Goldwell master colorist, I’m a scalp micropigmentation artist, and now I’m a trichologist. So, when you come to me, you’re really getting a full circle of information from diet to blow-dry tips. Trichology is not just about vitamins and supplements; it’s about how we care for our hair. And I think it’s a game-changer for women to seek out.”
Prices for Fox’s scalp facials start at $240 and vary based on your scalp and hair needs. See her website for more information and follow Fox on Instagram at @maneinkny.